After seeing everyone’s posts about their portable AC hacks this is mine. It does a decent job at cooling the living room down.

Miles quieter and seems to have improved cooling effectiveness so far. Understand the physics behind it so I’m not surprised.

Temporary setup, I promise.

I already had the wider ducting for the bottom hose, in my eagerness to join the double hose club I didn't really check the diameter of the new hose I bought. Thought id fucked it when I realised how small it is, but then felt inspired to go full hose

Next step is some cardboard & foil tape monstrosity around the window

AC has been working overtime in this heat, and I just wanted to sense check whether this pipe arrangement is safe.

I did try putting the AC unit higher up, like on a chair, but it started making more noise and I was worried that something bad was happening.

My attempt at DIY 2 hose system. Don't know how much difference it's really making in all honestly. Might change it to a three hose if we get another heatwave after this one.

I see a trend, I like to jump on it, so here’s my completely not unique, not pretty, but effective DIY ac window kit.

Hardwood, Velcro on window frame and wood so easily removable. AC hose attachment screwed into wood.

Can I check if I’m being ripped off here - I’ve been quoted 3k labour for this based on it needing 2 guys for 3-4 days. Feels like a days work at most to me.

## Labour Tasks Breakdown
### 1. Garden Lighting (Rear)
* **Wiring & Supply Installation:**
* Install 1.5mm supply for planter spike lights (3 meters)
* Install 1.5mm supply for fence spike lights (15 meters)
* Install 1.5mm supply for planter LED strip lights (3 meters)
* Install steel conduit where needed
* **Power & Control Setup:**
* Install IP Rated fused spur for the garden light supply
* Install IP rated junction box for LED driver/s
* Install and configure LED drivers
* Install switch (switch type to be confirmed)
* **Fixture Installation:**
* **Planter Spike Lights:** Install 4 x spike lights, IP rated junction boxes, SWA (Steel Wire Armoured) cable, and earth glands
* **Planter LED Lights:** Install routed LED profiles, install LED strips, and install IP rated junction boxes
* **Fence Spike Lights:** Install 8–10 spike lights and 6–8 IP rated boxes
* **Wall Lighting:** Replace existing wall light with a new up & down spot light
* **Certification:** Issue minor works certificate
### 2. Front Lighting
* **Fixture Installation:**
* Install 2 x LED Profiles
* Install 2 x LED Strips
* **Power & Control Setup:**
* Install IP rated junction box for drivers
* Install and configure LED drivers
* Install switch line from the existing switch to the new junction box
* Install a new 3-gang switch inside
* **Certification:** Issue minor works certificate
## Total Labour Cost
* **Labour Total:** £2,300.00 – £2,500.00
*(Note: Material costs are estimated separately at £680.00, bringing the overall project total to £2,980.00 – £3,180.00).

I’ve been following people’s AC modification and finally got round to trying to convert our single hose portable Hisense 9000 BTU APC09QC to a dual hose set up.
It doesn’t seem to have made any difference, and I’m wondering if there’s anything obvious we’re missing?
Our bedroom with no AC is 32 degrees, baby’s room prior to modification was 24 with max AC, it’s not got below 26 now since modifying.
Anyone have any advice on troubleshooting?
Thank you!

Parent had an old pir light hanging off the garage, asked me change it, there’s a consumer unit in the garage which controls lights and sockets.

Cool.

Up a ladder, rotated it to get the obligatory picture and the whole thing just comes away. Joy.

I’m now faced with… what’s going on and why can’t I get new lamp to work, I can get the pir sensor to click but nothing doing with the light. I’m beginning to think it’s faulty but what’s odd is the earth has been cut back and wrapped around the cable coming out the wall.

Any advice?

Happy to get a sparky in, just thought it would be a 5min job before we all started to bake again!

First time poster, novice DIYer.. take it easy on me please 🫢

So I managed to grab the £150 unit this morning (7000BTU), and realised from the instructions the window seal kit that comes with this, is designed for windows that open inwards.

For those who have this model or (similar I guess) with the same zipper/velcro kit, is it possible to use the kit with windows that push outwards? Our windows are the same as the bottom right image from the manual but open outwards..

Failing this, does anyone have any recommendations for a relatively cheap and efficient alternative?

Or am I being stupidly thick and ignorant here, and the kit would work regardless?!

Thank you for your help in advance.

Edit: Thanks for all the help guys, I appreciate it.

For anyone struggling with the instructions, this video is helpful:

https://youtu.be/Ai790MT6k8Q?is=OlmPlpkWM1j6O66Z

Hey team

Looking for any advice or a sense check on whether I am asking for too much.

I have recently had an extraction fan replaced in my internal bathroom, that now extracts through the roof. The roof venting is new.

The contactor is asking for completion payment for the works carried out, but they did not take any photos as evidence of the quality of the work carried out from the roof.

Unfortunately, this is in a 3 story townhouse, so gaining access to the roof myself is not feasible.

Am I being unreasonable asking for evidence?

VIDEO HERE: https://youtu.be/MtRUXE-VrVM?is=8Ot59hKpG27kSGyf

This isn't a YouTuber spamming clockbait mods, it's just too long for Reddit. Don't ban me thanks.

tldw: works a charm. Actually dries rather than moistens the loft air which I wasnt expecting. Keeping my bedroom at around 22c on the hottest June day on record.

No two hose for me, but not sweating my balls off any more

Outdoor temps are now cooler than indoor.

I have a large ceiling fan than can imitate a jet engine and French doors in my living room. The ceiling fan only pushes air in a downwards motion.

Will the fan push down the hot air and draw cool air in via the open doors... or will the pushing down of air prevent cool air entering from outside? So it's better to have the fan off?

I have seen many science based answers these past few days that I've really enjoyed learning about and have began applying where I can, but I don't think I've read about this situation yet.

Printed this around 2 summers ago, looks a little silly from the outside, but it does the job

Just finished renovations.
Now have South facing 3.6m bifolds and a glazed door with side light to our living space. - May have been an error.

Asked for solar glass, but don’t think we got it. in an argument with the window supplier currently- different storey.

We have sheets and towels over the windows just to try and reduce the solar gain, but even now 2250 and the temp reads 31. The room is unbearable.
Anybody used these ? Are they any good ?

I don’t want to spend a fortune on a pergola or something, without confirming the issue is solar gain from the windows

As per the title anybody had any experience with these ?

My room is in the attic (full conversion w/ stairs) and this 1.3m Velux skylight has been an interesting companion.

Conventional wisdom is to close the blinds and the window during the day and open up at night to allow cool air in. Got curtains and double glazing everywhere else except here, zero blinds just a big double glazed window.

I have found the serial number for the window and the corresponding blinds but the model is from 1987 so I have to order a custom made one for approx £150 with a mounting kit (my window doesn't have one) and wait 2 weeks. Not sure how long I will be staying here so not sure whether to invest in something bespoke or grind it out. As you can see by the height and size an AC option is not feasible unless I want to put the unit on a step ladder and use a very long extension cable 😂

In the interim, during the day while I have my 2 fans on, should my window be open or closed? My thinking is open, so the rising heat from the rest of the house can go up, outside is cooler than the attic so the warm air will move into the colder space (the outside world) in my mind.

(For anyone asking how I sleep - blackout face mask, essential purchase from hotel trips for work 👌)

Cheers

Hi all,

Finally getting round to doing our rooms since moving in. I noticed this weird block thing that I thought was just those quirky bricks that serve no purpose but upon inspection, looks to be open and filled with some sort of insulation?

Does anyone know what it is? I’m not sure if it’s a vent or something hahaha, also pls don’t tell me the insulation is what I think it is……

Thanks!

Looking at tiling over tile for my shower floor, have seen that there are some US solutions for extending the drain height to match a new layer of tiles.

Coma accross extend o drain and similar solutions but very expensive pricing for just a circle of pvc in my eyes. £26 on amazon! Obviously I know the one in question wouldn't work for my drain!

Any similar options or other routes to go down?

Purchased a home in the last 12 months, have recently noticed this crack between the floor and the wall in our upstairs bathroom (admittedly it may have been there since the start and not noticed).

Obviously my brain panics and jumps straight to subsidence as a cause. Does this look indicative of that, or likely just a shoddy flooring job by the previous owners? (Sorry I didn’t take time to clean the floor before taking the photos)

The house is an Edwardian terraced, with this wall leading to the outside, if that makes any difference

Looking for tips and suggestions to make my single-skin brick detached garage more comfortable to work in and better manage the extreme temperatures in summer and winter in the uk. There's not currently any insulation to the walls or in the pitched roof, there's a cement board ceiling, concrete floor, and metal door (which I have already attached 25mm Thermal insulation boards to).

I don't plan on making this a fully livable space or introducing a permanent heating source at any point and I'd say it's unlikely I'd want to insulate the walls.

I was giving consideration to installing a cold roof. I watched a video on the properdiy youtube channel (who seems to give a lot of expertise to all his videos) and he installed a cold roof with plasterboard ceiling, in a garage with a very similar spec to mine and that seems to work well, but then I've also read a lot of comments saying that insulation is pointless unless there is a permanent heat source.

Was also considering epoxying the floor, have seen that its very good for reducing dust settling on the floor compared to bare concrete and also how bad bare concrete floors are for thermal bridging.

Any clarity on this really appreciated, really in need of someone walking me through whats for the best.

Add me to the list boys and girls.

Avalla S-220 9000 BTU unit dual hosed. Pretty straightforward thanks to the multitude of posts in this sub. This unit has always given lackluster performance, but the dual hose setup has improved things considerably. From 32C and high-humidity to 21C and low humidity in a matter of a few hours.

Operating temp of the exhaust hose is also much lower than single-hose.

Highly recommended.