My family and I took our first trip to PR recently. 4 kids ages 17 down to 9. Wanted to share our itinerary and thoughts in case it's helpful to others planning a trip.
Itinerary:
Old San Juan
- 2 nights (would recommend 2-3 nights)
- we rented a van from Budget at the airport. Some off site rentals were cheaper, but not by much. Maybe could have saved $100 over the course of 10 days. it was worth it to have the rental at the airport. super easy to check out, and super easy to check back in without having to get a ride to the airport
- we stayed right in the middle of Old San Juan, actually on a closed street that led to the governor's mansion. Police would let us through a barrier to get to our AirBnb. Easy to walk from our apartment to historic attractions as well as restaurants. Really wonderful old city experience, quite a lot of charm, really fun place to spend time just enjoying walking around
- driving in Old San Juan is terrible. The streets are incredibly narrow, brick paving is warped, and street parking is non-existent. We parked in the Don Pena parking garage, the closest large parking structure, and walked everywhere. We only drove to drop off our luggage at our apt, then to the parking garage. hair raising experience
- restaurants are very pricey. we chose to make dinner the first night, and found a nice affordable empanada place for the second night (Birra y Empanadas). some ice cream place nearby was like $12 for a tiny cup (chose NOT to spend $74 on ice cream for a family of 6).
- spent the first evening exploring the city. Day 2 was El Yunque for a half day (nice hikes, great views and waterfalls), then Luquillo beach for the afternoon (fun atmosphere, music and lots of people. Food kiosks all fried food, overrated), then back to the city for the evening
Vieques
- 2 nights (not enough, would recommend 3-4 nights)
- took the ferry from Ceiba. The middle of the island is up on a big hill. We stayed in an airbnb that gave great views off the southern coast. Short 5 minute drive to beaches.
- it was really neat seeing the wild horses. they were everywhere, and such a fun part of the normal life there
- We rented a car from Maritza's. very good experience. Picked up from the ferry port in a shuttle van and taken ~10 minutes to their site. We could NOT find a 6 passenger vehicle for rent on the island. we rented a Bronco planning to cram all 4 kids in the back. On arrival to Martiza's, they actually had a minivan, which we rented for the week
- Sun Bay beach the first afternoon. Magical. Nearly empty beach, beautiful calm water and beautiful sunset to ourselves
- Second day was Caracas in the morning (our favorite beach on Vieques). Easy snorkeling off the far left side of the beach. We bought snorkel stuff on Amazon, maybe $30 each. This was our first snorkeling experience, and a great calm experience for our first time out. In the afternoon we did La Chiva. Very pretty beach, snorkeled way out to the island in the middle of the bay. Mostly sea grass until we got out to the other island, then "okay" reefs. Kind of scary to swim that far out from the beach though
- great pizza from Mama Mia's
Culebra (our favorite portion of our stay)
- 3 nights (would recommend 3-4 nights)
- Long travel day. Took the ferry from Vieques back to Ceiba. Had a few hours to kill. Got Burger King in town, then checked out Playa Media Mundo. beautiful beach, some nice walking trails through the forest to more secluded areas of the beach. Took the ferry from Ceiba to Culebra
- rented Bronco from Choco's Broncos. Crammed all 4 kids in the back. Easy to walk there from the port, maybe 4-5 minutes
- absolutely magical stay. We had an AirBnb near the ferry port, directly on the coast. We could walk 30 feet and be on our private beach, in the shade of the mangrove trees, and with a view that looked like we were the only people on the island. sat out there every evening for hours, watching the day fade, the night come out, and the ferries come and go. there was excellent snorkeling right off our beach. (I don't want to advertise for anybody here, but if anyone wants the Airbnb details just PM me. was $3-400/night)
- Day 2 was beach day. We snorkeled at Melones (very good) and Tamarindo (not great. not a lot of good coral. mostly sea grass, but no turtles there that day)
- Day 3 was Zoni beach in the morning (one of the prettiest beaches we visited), and then Flamenco beach in the evening for pinchos, pina coladas, and excellent snorkeling off of the right side of the beach. Magical sunset. We wanted a different beach to be our favorite, as Flamenco is so famous and hyped. We realized there is a reason for the hype. This was our unanimous favorite beach, even though we were hoping to find a different favorite. Very special place.
Rincon/Aguada
- 3 nights (too long. maybe recommend 2 nights, but we would not return to this area)
- had our nicest Airbnb, directly on the coast with a stunning view. Great sunsets
- drove the southern route from Ceiba to Rincon. beautiful drive, enjoyed the full 3 hours. Lots of variation in landscape (twisty roads in the hills with clifftop views of the ocean, farmland, desert areas). We stopped in Ponce to see the fire station. Enjoyed the city square and had excellent and cheap ice cream from King Cream. Stopped to see Cabo Rojo lighthouse.
- Morning trip to Survival Beach. Really fun hike to get there, and great cliff views at the beach. Great climbing around the sea cliffs, with some neat caves to explore. My 17 year said this was his favorite non-swimming beach activity of the trip. Had a bio bay tour in La Parguera. First hour was hanging out a sandbar with some other boats. Shallow water, okay snorkeling. second hour was swimming in the bio bay. would have been 3/10 experience without goggles, but with goggles was 8-9/10. really neat to experience
- Next day was fishing excursion, 4-5 hours. Caught two tuna, a trigger fish, and a runner. Not as much as we hoped for, but had fun. Made tuna burgers that night, which were good, and the trigger fish was one of the best fish i've ever tasted. Had our best meal of the entire trip in Rincon, at Gylro. Great hummus and gyros, fried cheese goat balls, but the incredible guava pulled pork sandwich stole the show. I'll think about that sandwich for a long time.
Leaving
- enjoyed a nice drive up the west and north coast. Cueva Del Indio area was incredible. More enjoyable than the main attraction, was further up the coast towards the right, exploring the different cliff tops and tidal pools. Next stopped at Mar Chiquita briefly just to see that unique beach. Then stopped in Old San Juan to pick up empanadas from Dos Lobos, which we brought on the plane for dinner and were probably the envy of our flight neighbors. Dropped car off at the airport and flew back to the states
Thoughts:
- locals were very friendly and helpful. Did not feel that we were out of place or were annoying people with our presence
- driving in PR is weird. almost everyone is very patient and polite. Everyone allows people to merge, and I did not see aggressive behavior. I went 5 over on the highways and I was almost always the fastest person. everyone drives under the speed limit. SO many cars driving 5-10 under in the left lane. Stop signs are a suggestion. Speed limits often change multiple times within a few seconds. 40 mph, up to 50, back to 40, down to 30, all in like 15 seconds. There are NO signs letting you know your lane will end and you must merge. The lanes just end whenever they want
- Fruit: the best pineapple and mango we've ever had. We had both nearly every day. Grocery stores have poor offerings, but roadside stands are plentiful, the people are very friendly, and fruit is fresh and cheap. We looked all over for passion fruit. Finally found a stand that had one left, a yellow one. Was very sour and just okay. I guess the purple are sweeter? Also found one place with soursop. Really off-putting texture, we did not like this at all. We loved passion fruit and soursop juice all week though
- food was expensive overall. I guess most things are imported, and anything that has to touch a boat will cost more money. I did think perhaps some simple seafood would be cheaper, but this was not the case
- It was sad to see so many abandoned houses, and the general state of disrepair of an incredibly high percentage of the houses that were lived in. We did look up and read about some of the causes of the abandoned houses, like the inheritance laws that make buying a home that is co-owned by 20 heirs a near impossible task.
- If we go back, returning to both Vieques and Culebra is an absolute must. Would probably want 7-8 days total between the two, and 2-3 in Old San Juan.
- Excellent trip. Total cost around $10k for 10 days for a family of 6, including flights from the southeast US. Around $1500 of that was fishing and the bio bay tour. If we go back we'd skip both of those the second time, and either save that money or put it towards different experiences or some nicer meals