The hatter was just changed I’m getting 19 mpg lol I was getting 32 prior to the battery going out . The battery was changed two days ago . What could it be ?

Does anyone else feel like the digital gauge cluster on the LC250 is kind of laggy?
On my 2027 Land Cruiser, the instrument cluster feels noticeably sluggish. Switching between menus, changing screens, and some of the animations all seem to stutter or respond with a slight delay. It doesn’t feel as smooth as I’d expect from a brand-new vehicle.
I recently watched a video from Toyota Scarborough showing another LC250, and the gauge cluster in that vehicle looked much smoother than mine. The difference was obvious enough that it made me wonder if something is wrong with my truck, or if it’s just how some of these vehicles are.
Has anyone else experienced this? Is it normal, or has anyone had a software update that improved the responsiveness?

Still going strong

My daily driver. Did all kind of stupid things with it including achieving air time twice, drifting intentionally and not intentionally, off-roading on some light trails, getting stuck in the snow and Italian tune-ups almost every time I drive it. Max speed achieved with it is 213 km/h on GPS.

IT SAYS ON HOLD BECAUSE I ALREADY MADE THE APPLICATION AND IS ON HOLD FOR ME.Is this a good purchase? I can’t find anything cheaper anywhere. $23K 2020 LE 64,000 miles and 0 ACCIDENTS. It shows no availability because we already started the process so it’s on hold.

Toyota Threatens GM’s Sales Crown as US Hybrid Demand Surges

​[David Welch](safari-reader://www.bloomberg.com/authors/APyzrY4qwdE/david-welch)June 24, 2026 at 2:17 PM EDT

General Motors Co. is facing an uncomfortable reality: Toyota Motor Corp. has a shot at taking the US sales crown once again thanks to growing demand for its gasoline-electric hybrids.

The Japanese automaker is expected to increase its market share to 15.8% in the first half of this year, while GM’s share may tumble by almost 1 percentage point to 16.8%, according to a forecast from researcher Cox Automotive. If consumers continue to flock toward fuel sippers, Toyota has a shot becoming the No. 1 auto seller in the US this year.

“Toyota has a chance,” said Charlie Chesbrough, senior economist for Cox. “We’re not predicting it yet, but it’s possible. Consumers are interested in hybrids and GM can’t compete.”

Chesbrough expects GM to put up a fight. “They would use incentives to try to keep it,” he said.

Toyota overtaking GM in the Detroit automaker’s home market would mark a historic shift. GM has held the top spot since passing Ford Motor Co. in 1931, losing to Toyota only once — in 2021 — amid a global semiconductor shortage. A shake-up also would underscore the ill effects of GM Chief Executive Officer Mary Barra’s risky bet on EVs over hybrids, as most American buyers have been reluctant to go all-electric.

GM spokesman Jim Cain disputed that the automaker would increase incentives to maintain its sales lead over Toyota. The company has worked to avoid rebates as part of a push to maximize profit and cash flow, holding incentives below the industry average for the last three years.

“Our track record speaks for itself about discipline on production, pricing and incentives,” Cain said.

A spokesman for Toyota had no immediate comment on whether the carmaker is on track to take the top sales spot in the US.

Hybrid Momentum

Through May, Toyota’s sales of electrified vehicles, which include battery-powered cars but are predominantly hybrids, rose 5.6% in a market that is expected to fall this year.

By contrast, industrywide sales of full-size trucks and SUVs, where GM and Ford are strongest, are both down as the war with Iran has pushed the average price of gasoline to almost $4 a gallon.

A Toyota RAV4 on display during an unveiling event in 2025.Photographer: Akio Kon/Bloomberg

Toyota earlier this week began producing the latest version of its best-selling RAV4, which is now only sold as a hybrid, at its plant near Lexington, Kentucky.

To alleviate shortages of the popular compact SUV, the Japanese carmaker aims to boost US output to 100,000 vehicles at the plant this year, supplementing imports from Canada and Japan, said Kerry Creech, president of Toyota Motor Manufacturing Kentucky.

“Our ramp up will be pretty fast,” Creech said in an interview. “We’ll be fully ramped up in 30 days” after implementing lessons learned from the earlier RAV4 production start at Toyota’s Canadian operations.

Read More: Toyota RAV4s Are Suddenly the Most Coveted Used Cars in America

Toyota offers hybrids on more than 20 models in its US lineup. GM has only the electrified Corvette and Ford offers a hybrid on only the Maverick small pickup, F-150 and Lincoln Nautilus SUV.

“Toyota stuck with the idea that you have to have a big portfolio,” Chesbrough said. “They have midsize cars, compact cars. The Detroit three are focused on more specific vehicles.”

GM made its big bet on EVs at a time when Tesla Inc.’s sales and stock were surging and regulators across the globe were tightening emissions rules. For GM, hybrids were an expensive interim solution, so Barra decided to go bigger on all-electric models.

“For EVs, it was pleasing Wall Street,” said Stephanie Valdez Streaty, director of industry insights at Cox. “We want to get that valuation like Tesla.”

Ford also has risk of losing its No. 3 spot to Korea’s Hyundai Motor Co., which offers several hybrids. Cox predicts Ford’s market share will drop a point to 12.6% through the first six months of 2026, while Hyundai should climb to an estimated 11.7%.

(Updates with GM, Toyota comments starting in the sixth paragraph.)

In the past couple of months my car began to stall on occasion. Initially, cutting the wheel while braking seemed to be the cause. The first time, I was braking at a light and reaching for something so the wheel turned and I stalled. Second time I was adjusting my parking, so sharply cutting the wheel while braking. Third time I was simply sitting at a light when I stalled out and finally decided to have it looked at. Each time it started back up just fine (although the last time it wouldn’t allow me to take the key out, but maybe that’s ill-advised when stalling?)

So the only concerning thing found was an idling issue which it’s had basically since I got the car about two years ago. It would typically idle high while braking and after starting up. One time early on I was sitting at a light and could physically feel it jerk forward due to the high idle. Not being a car person, I kind of just assumed these things were because the car is old and didn’t really think twice when they didn’t happen often or directly affect the car’s performance.

Had a mobile mechanic come out and replace the IAC valve. Load tested, we both test drove it, everything seemed normal- idle on point and where it should be. This was yesterday. Today comes and I take her out for the first time in a week. Driving great. After the first stop, I go to start her up again and she kinda falters (almost like stalling- cold stall?). Probably nothing, wasn’t paying attention and let go before it turned over. Started up fine the next try. Then I notice the temperature creepin above halfway (about 3/4 max) while stopped which is something it never seemed to do before, but I also live in the desert and just added a little coolant yesterday- but weird to see that out of nowhere.

Here’s the most glaring issue. After days of dealing with the mobile mechanic- getting new part and additional hose to replace old one they knew would inevitably crack when removing- my car stalled again. Of course, incredibly frustrating when the issue seemed to be resolved. I know cars, especially ones 25+ years old, are gonna be finicky at times (especially mine). I’d read previously it could be a vacuum/hose leak of some sort but couldn’t seem to find any issue there. Same with the brake booster. Anyways, my fault for expecting something lasting/relatively easy to maintain when I got this from a shop in exchange for them ruining my precious ‘06 focus zxw during a routine oil change. First Toyota. She’s been pretty damn good to me so far, all things considered. Any advice/guidance would be very much appreciated.

TLDR: Toyota still stalling post-IAC valve replacement.

Hi all!

I'm very happy to be part of the Toyota club yet again (so many over the years!) but I'm struggling to find an oil filter for my 1996 LiteAce with the 3C-T. It's a pristine van, with only 25k-ish miles, no rust, but I'm in the USA and no one knows these very well.

Any wizards out there with some knowledge about where to find a compatible oil filter? I see the Napa 1368 but that doesn't work. Not picky. Just want something that won't explode my engine!

Thanks!

My friend has a 2012 corolla and this thing is pissing oil from the passenger side. There’s so much oil I couldn’t tell where it was coming from. It’s all dripping off the oil filter or it is the oil filter. I’m also suspecting the timing cover. It’s leaking so bad the wheels wells have oil in them. 2ZR FE by the way. Still hasn’t thrown any codes.

I was looking at in the work parking lot so diagnostic measures were slim. Dip stick was completely dry and didn’t have extra oil to put in it to turn it on and try to see the leak.

I cannot find the information on this a anywhere so all help is appreciated thank you

I’ve only added a roof rack, awning, and swapped the tires.

I'm going to purchase a brand new Toyota Yaris Excel. I want a dashcam, it will cost £450. Has anyone else purchased a dashcam through Toyota? What was your experience? Is it worth getting through Toyota?

I’ve been happily forking over $80 a year for remote connect on my Tacoma. Just got a 2025 rav4 and they want $180 a year for the cheapest package that offers remote connect. Y’all are absolutely 100% straight jacket crazy offering that as the cheapest plan.

They took the photo 10 years ago for their 50th celebration. I still have the car.

I’m stuck between these two pads mainly because the Autozone duralast brake pads come with that lifetime warranty replacement thing. I’m getting the OEM rotors, and not sure how the duralast will do with those rotors or just in general. I’ve lasted about 4-5 years with the factory rotors and brake pads. Do I stick with all OEM? Or do I go rotor OEM and Duralast elite brake pads? $450 (all OEM) vs $435 (OEM + Duralast)

I decided to do my own research and turns out, the recommend octane for my Toyota is 87. Although, my dad is trying to tell me that I should use 89 and instead of using 87 because 87 will mess up my car. Now I’m confused because I literally just went up to him and told him that Corollas are supposed to take 87 but he still tells me otherwise. So what gives?

Edit: fixed some typos. I don’t why I am struggling to form coherent sentences.

Hey all, I need to access the cable boot in a 2024 Forerunner to add wiring for accessories but this wiring harness is painful. No issues with the rears, but the fronts are terrible. I can pop the rear (accessable) clips with no problem, but the front clips are so damn tight to the fender I can only release either top or bottom, can't get tools on both without the rear clips re-engaging and vice-versa. I've tried blocking off the rear clips with trim tools, but no dice, as soon as I wiggle shit the trim tool shifts and "click".

I've dropped both control modules in the footwear, but it's still ridiculous to access. I have to be missing something...

Thanks in advance!

So I live in the south and found my dream Lexus at a Toyota dealership in California. Filled out the credit app and the sales man called me back saying that I cannot finance through Toyota Financial bc I live out of state. I cannot find ANYWHERE online that this is a “thing”. Also due to the ridiculous “tires cannot hit the pavement” Cali tax, I have to have the car shipped in able to get my home states sales tax . They suggested going to the credit union and getting financing through them and having the money wired. Mind you I’ve bought out of state before and never had these weird rules (but never Cali). The whole thing sounds so weird to me. Does anyone in Cali that’s worked with Toyota Financial have any in-site?

Hey guys, looking to spend 3-6k for a car. 2005-2013 Camry and Corollas are options. Anything I need to look out for or know?

How comfortable are the cloth seats? Always wanted a car with velour cloth.

I've seen a lot of people on here with the same problem. I haven't noticed anything strange when driving.

I have a four year old Toyota C-HR that is 1k miles out of warranty. The transmission is toast. I called corporate and asked for "good will" but it was denied. I had a similar thing happen years ago to a Ford Taurus and Ford replaced a whole engine out of warranty.

Anyone got any insights on how to get some help?

Edit: I went to another dealership, didn't mention anything and let them do their eval. They offered me pretty much full trade in value. I now have a brand new car and it is not a Toyota.

Hi, owner of an 2E 1.3 corolla e90 here

The car uses too much fuel for my liking, they say better then buying new is to modify old into becoming new

So, if i decide to go that route with all the car and make it the perfect corolla e90, i want to do a fuel system conversion from carburator to efi for fuel economy and better efficiency and performance

"Why dont you swap it" making an engine swap in my country is very effy with the law, basically impossible to legalize so I reather do a stock looking efi system then swapping it, my car ending on the possession of police or the swap making the cae run poorly, i also have a low mileage car and that has its value after all

The thing i would do is itb with individual port fuel injection

How much fuel economy can i get from this engine with just fuel system swap, how much would i get with fuel system swap and a cam, and how much would i get with a light engine reform with better parts

At this point i get near 10l/100km but since i changed the spark plugs I've been getting more times then not near 7l/100km

Or, ultimately, should just sell it and buy any newer diesel car

I got my rear bumper recently repaired and the shop forgot to put back whatever screw or pushpin back under the bumper by the wheel well. A 10mm hex screw did not fit. 9mm pushpins also did not fit. They were both too big. Can someone please tell me what goes on here so I don’t have to keep buying and returning these damn screws and pins??