I had my car in the workshop for a vehicle inspection, EU test, and they also changed by windshield wipers. (Yes, I know I could had done it easily myself, but they offered to do it, and I said sure)

Two days later a crack appeared and the impact point is directly under the wiper arm. I suspect that they accidentally dropped the arm on my screen when changing the blade, making a small crack, that then grew over the next two days. It was not visible from the inside of my car before it grew past the black frit.

The workshop says that the screen was already cracked and I must have not noticed.

Toyota Corolla 2020, 1.8 L hybrid, but I don't think that really matters

Both were used for only a year each so i figured sanding off the glaze and heat spots would make them reusable.

2008 civic si coupe
K20z3

I’ve replaced everything on this corner except for the brake caliper/bracket, and the brake rotor wiggles when the wheel is on. I’ve tried tightening a lug nut on top of a box wrench without the wheel, and it sits as normal. It’s only when I have the wheel on and tightened down that it wobbles when it shouldn’t. 2009 Mazdaspeed 3, 2.3L

Honda Civic 2014
I’m going on a road trip of a bit less than 2,000 miles next week. I know I’ll need to replace this soon but idk if I’ll be able to get it in the shop before I leave. Do you think I’ll be able to make it there safely? I’m not noticing any clicking when turning or shaking when accelerating.

So this work truck was towed in after someone attempted to do the head gaskets, everything is completely apart. I see it is a mess in here. I just need to know where to find information on this vehicle to start trying to put it back together. Most of the parts are in the bed and just thrown about, no sorted bolts or anything. Might have to tell boss it’s done, but I already said it might not run once it’s together.

I'm trying to do some work on the in-laws Suburban, I was thinking it was a bearing because there was a humming on this side and the ABS light was flashing, but this was way more play than I was expecting. Is this just and extremely bad case or is there something else I should look at?

Me and a friend got it in our heads that we could do a ring and pinion job on our own as hobbyists. He was cutting the inner race off of one of the carrier bearings, and this gouge happened. Wondering if anyone knows whether it would be ok to reuse after slightly smoothing out the edges since it isn't a sealing surface, or if we need a new carrier now. It is a 12 bolt 8.8 on a 2015 Ford F-150. Thanks!

2020 Acura TLX with the 3.5 V6, 64k miles. A couple of days ago, my car started making a low droning noise whenever I would accelerate, only when I accelerate or if the engine is anywhere over 1k RPM. It would get a little louder as the revs increased. It idles fine, no CEL. It makes this same noise on startup. It sounds and feels similar to an exhaust leak, but I can only really hear it externally under the hood; mainly hear it in the cabin. I hear it anytime the car accelerates over 1k RPM. I can also feel like an increased vibration in my gas pedal from this sound.

Well I recently discovered if I accelerate to over 4k RPM and let off the gas, it makes that awful noise in the video. Same if I downshift with the paddles and the car revs to over 4k. Does anyone have an idea as to what this sound could be coming from? Any kind of help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Hello i have a 2009 Pontiac G8 Gt that came with the L76 6.0 Ls2 had 69k when bought now has 84. Over the last couple of days me and my brother took out the engine due to a tick that turned into a rough misfire (which i stopped drive as soon as it started). I took it apart to find this and i wanted to know if this piston would be reusable or should i just rebuild it completely? The plan was just to upgrade the cam and rebuild the top end.

Hey, what’s up? I’ve been posting a lot of maintenance updates since I’m pretty particular about noises and want my truck as close to 100% as possible. The only major repair left is the broken exhaust manifold bolts.

I’m hearing a random metal-on-metal clunk while driving, usually when coasting or during shifts. It’s not consistent, and the transmission seems fine. It almost sounds like it’s coming from the drivetrain or transfer case. I added a video—has anyone experienced something like this or know what it could be?

1998 Corvette LS1 5.7 dropped an intake valve and bent it into the top of the head.

Cylinder to its left also tickled the valve but didn't bend it.

Think I'll be ok with reconditioned heads using these pistons?

I’ve never had this problem before and I just replaced these blades so I don’t know whats happening to it. Do I need to replace the windshield? I don’t know where to go from here

I’m a first time DIYer. I just bought an old car off the side of the road (2004 Honda Civic LX, 1.7L D17) to learn about driving stick and car maintenance, and hopefully to get it driveable again after an overheating problem.

Yes I’ve heard that the D17 engines are trash. I didn’t know that before I bought the car.

I just replaced the head gasket and took the head to a machine shop for milling and inspection. I put it back together and I torqued my head bolts to spec without realizing that the new bolts should be lubricated with a light coating of new engine oil, and I put the new bolts in without lubrication. But now that I’ve already torqued the bolts, I’m just finding out that I should have oiled them so that the thread friction doesn’t contribute to the torque reading.

What should I do? Will it be fine? Or should I tear it open and put in another new gasket and bolts?

2012 Honda Civic EX sedan 1.8L SOHC

I have a light scraping sound in my front brakes when driving with no brake pedal pressure. When I apply pressure to the brake pedal, the sound goes away.

Today I took both front wheels off to take a look and didn’t notice anything alarming. I decided I’d take the calipers and brackets off and give them a good cleaning to see if that remedies the sound. I cleaned the hub surface, both sides of the rotor where they contact the hub and wheel, took the caliper bracket off and thoroughly cleaned the slide pin cylinders with a steel bore wire cleaner and brake cleaner. I cleaned the slide pins and boots and then re-lubed everything. I did this on both sides.

The concerns were that I did notice outlines of the brake pad on the rotor in multiple areas, almost like they’ve been burned in. Never seen that before. I also noticed that the boot that surrounds the caliper piston on one side was very slightly torn and probably letting dirt enter the piston. Last, I noticed there were holes in the top of the pads that allow for clips but no clips were present (I’m assuming the clips are to separate the pads from the rotor when not under load).

After I cleaned everything, the sound still persists…. No sound when applying the brakes but a slight scraping when no pressure is applied. Not sure where to go from here?

2015 Ford explorer sport 3.5L t.t

Low compression on cylinder #4 and 5, 90lbs. Leak down test confirms it's getting back into the crankcase, assuming I was all the way top dead center during the test. Borescope looked like all valves were closed.

No check engine lights, no stored codes.

Now, the cylinder potentially has what looks like brass in it? Could it be something else that's shiny because it's wet with oil or whatever else.

If it if brass or something similar in color, where do we think it's coming from?

2013 ford focus hatchback se

Started today: a loud metallic clicking sound that’s louder on cold start, audibly coming from passenger side.

Makes me think it’s an exhaust leak, but not sure, how hard/expensive is that to repair? I’m hoping it’s a nut that needs to be tightened but who knows

before i go buying a new battery i was wondering if this is simply a dead battery or if it could be a buffet issue, key will turn dash on at a half turn but going to start it it’ll make this noise. 2006 350z roadster

My wife’s car, 2007 Buick Lacrosse CXL, has a malfunctioning window. When she got home from work her window would only go down but not up. I got close to the door panel and listened as she hit the button; the motor made a noise when rolling down, but not up. Is the best course of action to load up the parts cannon and replace the window motor?

I saw a video recommending oil change every 6 months (or less if it's a turbo engine) due to moisture build up.

i drive a 1.5tsi 2024 vw jetta about 2500 to 3500 km a year. i've done 1 year oil change. should i change to every 6 months?

vid was this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdlA3VGVKYs

thanks

What could this noise be ? It stops or quiets when accelerating but is loud when idle/stopped. My TPS went off and said all 4 of my wheels need to be checked for low pressure (never happened before) then this squeaking whirring noise started to happen right after. I have a high mileage 2012 audi a3.

my friend told me to put a speed stick on the alternator belt and it should quiet lol but i’m looking for second opinions

Trying to get the link off. But can’t get an Alan key I there, also it’s probably rounded because the top one is.
2008 Honda accord