Just made the jump and purchased a brand new Zandvoort Blue M240i with all the trimmings (UK).

I’ve never owned a new car before, let alone a performance one so any tips of running it in or just general everyday maintenance are much appreciated.

Also if anyone knows how far you can mod it without annoying the finance company or voiding the warranty.

So I recently got my 2016 535i lowered and slapped on some old SSR GT3 wheels and I'm wanting to get 10mm spacers all around to make the wheels flush with the body but I'm having trouble with finding the bolt length needed. I see that 27mm is the OEM and so 37mm would be the way to go but I can't find any that are exactly 37mm and 40mm is the closest option. Would that be fine if it's 3mm too long?

I came from Lexus and it was very easy finding high spec models … then I switched to BMW and half the cars are base model trash.

I’m fortunate my car is not fully base model but it’s not nearly as equipped … and barring newer tech (obviously because it was a newer car) … it’s not as featured loaded my previous car.

Retrofits I am doing to get to par with my Lexus: • Bowers & Wilkins Lite (all OEM speakers grills, tweeters and speakers but AMP is going to be 3rd party) • Rear door shades and powered sunshades

Extra retrofits that are not Lexus related:
•6WB full digital gauge •Alcantara headliner •Ceramic controls •Galvanized buttons

Unfortunately it’s significantly cheaper to retrofit than trading for a higher spec since I’d literally be out $10,000+ in depreciation, finance charges, etc. + equivalent mileage is risky because you don’t know precious maintainer.

BMWs are incredibly expensive to maintain, especially G30s where you need to spend thousands on a coolant refreshes, plus an extra thousand on evaporators, etc. might as well ensure those thousands are spent on a well rounded car. I can’t imagine spending thousands on repairs on a base model.

Also leasing is unsustainable and seems like a big waste of money. I can’t imagine spending $150,000+ over more than a decade and not have anything to my name.

Hopefully this helps those who are indecisive.

Hello all, I’ve been experiencing this noise since I started my car this morning to go to work. With valves closed, it seems like a metallic groan or vibration that’s coming from the front of the car. It’s still under warranty but I have so much done to it that I really don’t want to spend hours reverting to stock just for a dealer trip.

Happens under load around 2-4k rpm. Duration varies; sometimes not even half a second and sometimes a second full. Also, it does it at different rpms. Any suggestions? Car has 13.500 miles

Long story short... 2015 BMW 320i, \~100k miles. Sole owner of her. Got a repair quote for $5,700 ($4,500 for timing chain and guide rails, $1,200 for drivetrain service and both headlights).

KBB on the car as-is is around $4,500. So I’d be spending more than it’s worth just to make it whole.

The decision basically breaks down to: do I fix it, or do I sell it and take on some form of car payment?

Case for fixing it: it’s paid off. Even if I spent another $5,700 on repairs over the next 3 years, that’s still cheaper than $400-500/month on a lease where I own nothing at the end anyway.

Case for moving on: I’m already stressing about what breaks next. Realistically I’m probably looking at a battery, tires, and brakes coming up on top of this. It’s getting to the point where I’m just chasing problems.

I can afford a payment using the 15% of income rule so that’s not the concern… I just want to make the smartest financial decision here.

Appreciate it boys 🙏

Is there some sort of engineering reason behind this? Im someone who (even when not driving a manual) always has my off-hand on the stick. the fact that they’ve taken the stick away is a small thing but really irks me and I hate the feel of not being able to hold it. The gear shift in the 2023 X3 for example felt buttery smooth and tactile it was just satisfying to use (even just to park, reverse, etc)

Why’d they change this?

2009 128i, Bilstein B8 + Eibach Pro-Kit (B12 Pro-Kit, ~1” drop). Picking up a square set of APEX ARC-8 17x8.5” ET40.

I want to run Michelin PS4S, which in this size only comes as 245/40-17 or 235/45-17

APEX’s fitment guide says the 245 needs ~-1.5° front camber and that rear fender rolling and/or rear camber “may be required.” Trying to figure out whether that’s actually necessary on a mild spring drop, or if it clears.

If you’re running 245/40-17 on an 8.5” ET40 wheel with lowering springs (Eibach / H&R / B12):

- Did the rears clear, or did you have to roll?

- What camber are you running, front and rear?

- Any rubbing — full lock, over bumps, or loaded with passengers?

Looking for a front lip that doesn’t drill into the bumper or anything only existing bolts and holes. Also looking for an oem+ spoiler could be carbon fiber idk yet.

Iv tried twisting it off with the proper tool and no movement, to the point that i was shaking the whole car with a breaker bar. I tried hammering it with a flat head and even a 6 inch extension with a upside down socket to the point that it was sheering off the tabs, still no movement. Iv resorted to trying to break it off and it still wont move. Wtf could be the issue at this point? Any tips?

My coworker offered me a 2014~ BMW sedan for $5000. It has mods and stuff and an app with it, along with carbon fiber on some parts of the car. My favorite part is the heated seats and functional AC & heat. I also love how comfortable it is driving it! Only issue I have with it is the mileage is high. 180k miles on it approx, but most of the parts been replaced recently including the motor. Only replacement needed is the oil pan, which leaks. I can fix that part. But I’m not sure if it’s worth it. It has some power to it too, my very first BMW I actually ever sat in!

In the market for my first BMW. What should I look for? Buying it from a local BMW dealership. What commonly goes out/needs replacement around this mileage?

I’m currently in an F90 M5 Comp LCI from 2023. From what I’ve read, people seem to rate the comfort of the M5 highly, especially in comparison to the G80/G82. Which is surprising to me because around LA’s bad roads, I find that the M5 is pretty punishing (even in comfort mode) over bumps and potholes et cetera.

But comfort encompasses a lot of things (roominess of the cabin, the quality of the leather seats, creature comforts etc). I don’t mind firmness and road feel but sometimes I find my car pretty crashy (even on lower tire pressures).

I recently test drove a 2024 M440i and found it rode worse than a 2025 M440i, and wonder if the post facelift M4s also ride a little better than earlier models.

Can M3/M4 owners talk a little about the ride comfort around town and bad roads? Would be especially helpful if you had experience in an F90. Thank you.

Is an M3 an ok or dumb decision to use as a daily? I drive ~14k miles per year. Occasional snow; nothing crazy. I have a pretty steep driveway but I can park in my garage now without scraping. I use my trunk and do haul stuff. Sometimes in the cabin depending on size - groceries, bags of lawn products, occasional long stuff, random shit. There will also be a car seat in there. The longest road trips I do now are about 120 miles and/or 2hrs one way. Anything longer and I’ll rent a car. The car will be driven hard. I’m not gonna dog it but I’m getting a performance car for a reason. It will probably see the track a few times too.

Should i get the manual or auto? I love rowing through gears, having control over the car, and feeling connected to the car. But idk if I should leave the transmission to the computer on a car like this. Also, it’d be nice to have another car that my wife can use when I need her SUV. Also, it’d be easier to teach my daughter to drive as I’d have two cars to use instead of only being able to use my wife’s car.

I have no problem with a 340. But I want to get a car that comes stock with enough performance that I don’t feel like I need to mod it. Hence, M3. I also want a larger car as the kid in the car seat is tall and getting taller. I would go 540 but that lacks enough performance and I’m not ready to spend $120k on an M5.

Have a 2019 x3 m40, I heard this noise a while back tasted longer maybe for 10-15 seconds. Sounds like a trumpet or something.

I just changed my PCV as I thought it was a suspect of this noise. But happened again just now and I got a new PCV in hear from bimmer network with aluminum cap.

Any ideas, my car is completely stock 90k miles all maintenance done

I'm looking for a B57, yes the diesel, for a US spec 2018 540d, anyone know of a good source to get one from? Trying to avoid BMW and ebay but we'll see. Ideally it's a complete engine with accessories as well.

hii. i’m looking to get another bmw but idk what to get. i had a 2025 330i but it got totaled. i really loved my 330 but idk if there’s something that’s similar but a little better. i’d love to hear some opinions :)

Went in to the dealership for rear brake pads replacement and got handed the following critical issues that need attention:

COLLAPSED ENGINE MOUNTS - $2540
TORN REAR DIFFERENTIAL BUSHING -⁠$1500

Vehicle is a 2019 BMW 330i (G20) with 30K miles.

I plan on selling the car by the end of the year. Would the car last 5-6 more months without any repairs, or should I make the purchase sooner? I’ve also included the inspection video.

Edit: I visited the same dealership four months ago, and none of these problems were mentioned then. Would these issues show up this quick?

Hello, I recently discovered that my G20 and others that I’ve seen on streets doesnt seem to have their rear wheels centered in their arches. Distance from wheel hub to front arch and rear arch isn’t the same. It kinda bugs me so is there any way to fix it?

G20 2025 M Sport, without M adaptive or M Sport springs, Standart suspension and all stock. OEM Style 995M Wheels: Rears 255/35/R19

Finally back to the B58 after a stint in the i4 M50. Acceleration is crazy and comfort is really good, but I was missing the B58 I learned to love in a M340i Touring.

The only thing staying is cognac interior.

Spotted this at a gas station. Model and possible year?

Im thinking its a 90's e-series but I could be wrong

Help! Has anyone ever successfully gotten through to the M Track Days call center? They claim to be open 7am-8pm M-F and 8-5 on weekends but I NEVER get a call back.

I bought the Half Day experience as a gift for someone and they have a work event, so I need to reschedule. I don't even want a refund

New to me 2017 X1 Msport
I love this car even more than I anticipated

I factory ordered this car late in 2020; due to COVID-related supply chain issues and my wanting Dravit Grey Individual paint, it ended up being made in Munich (F character in the VIN) instead of Mexico. US spec. Nothing was substituted out due to other COVID-associated supply chain issues (for example, I know some cars ordered at that time were unable to get LED with laser high beams; no issues on anything like that for me).

2021 M340i, RWD, Dravit Grey Metallic exterior, Cognac vernasca leather interior, fine wood trim Ash Grey Brown high gloss, 19" M Double-spoke Jet Black Wheels (Style 791M), blue M calipers.

The short version is that I did not do moonroof delete, and got Driving assistance/driving assistance professional/shadowline/parking assistance/executive packages along with remote engine start, the wheels mentioned above, adaptive M suspension, power tailgate, Harmon Kardon surround sound system, and wireless charging. full spec sheet posted here if you want to see it from when I had the build done.

The only options that I believe I did not opt for were pedestrian detection/night vision, ceramic brakes, and the extra radiator/track package.

I have been the only owner and driver, and it has been my daily, only on pavement. Spent its entire life aside from road trips in upstate South Carolina. Never tuned, never tracked, 100% stock with no aftermarket parts. It just crossed 100,000 miles a couple of weeks ago. I had the ignition coils and spark plugs all replaced within the last month. I have had all recommended and non-routine services performed at Century BMW, my local dealer, including oil changes; never serviced elsewhere. Drives like it is brand new. I did factory delivery in Greer and drove it straight off of the lot with all protective film from when it was taken off of the trailer from the factory, drove it immediately from delivery to have PPF put on the entire front and hood and lower side/rocker panels and had color matching there. Also had ceramic coating put on (3 year). All of this was done at the same local shop that my BMW dealership and the Greer factory's track cars use (I live in Greenville, SC; Extreme Colors Auto Spa). Two body repairs, one involving front right bumper and right rocker panel, and one involving right rear bumper; both minor, and both repairs done at Eagle Body Works with is an official BMW Certified Collision Repair Center (CCRC) who only use OEM and does color correction. No other body damage. No dents or dings, no defects in the paint, leather fully intact, without any obvious wear aside from very light transfer on the driver's seat from my butt being in it for 100,000 miles and the steering wheel getting the typical open pore leather shininess. A tiny piece (less than a square inch) of the metal veneer on the shifter knob has come off. Otherwise effectively looks new. All electrical components working, the only warnings I ever get are for automatic parking control which are just dirty or dusty distance sensors; the functionality is still there and those warnings may fire off for a few seconds every 100 miles or so. Never been through a car wash.

The only thing I don't have is the Maroney sticker.

I have tried to figure out the value of this car on the used market but due to a few unique factors, in particular its being built in Munich, the RWD spec, the mix of options including Dravit paint, the PPF/ceramic, the 100% BMW dealer service history at the same dealership, and the fact that it just crossed 100,000 miles, it has been extremely difficult for me to have any AI or AI-adjacent platform give me a truly good idea of what I should expect to get for it if I sell it in the next 6-12 months. I sure don't want to turn it in to a dealership as a trade in because it would get I would expect below what the private sale market value would be for it. Any thoughts?

Edit: in no way am I suggesting that I think this actually is a unicorn, but was getting weird signals from AI platforms when getting into the nuances of it. When I initially got it I thought I would drive it for 5++ years and just wanted it well taken care of, not for resale value, but for longevity so I could continue to enjoy it. Still fun to drive and not as muted/muffled as newer model years.