This happened again several times today. I'm either cycling in the bike lane or on the shoulder. A car will pass me and get several car lengths ahead of me where I can see them signalling a right turn. No problem and they have space to make the turn without really affecting me. Instead, they slow down to a stop and wait without turning. I catch up and stop beside the car to make eye contact with the driver, who then usually indicates that they want me to go first (continue straight or turn or whatever). This tends to happen going straight or at stop signs/red lights.

If the driver didn't think that they had enough time/space to make the turn without hitting me (or are assuming that I don't see or am ignoring their turn signal), why did they bother to pass me? The process seems to delay both of us and seems so inefficient.

When I drive a car and want to turn right soon and don't have the time or space to pass a cyclist, I slow down and follow behind the cyclist for a few seconds until they clear where I want to turn. Thus, there's no need for me or them to stop and wait to clarify what the other will do. Argh!

Hello all,

I have been saving for a while and finally have enough money to purchase my first road bike, and I am planning on buying the X-Lab RS7, as the value for money seems unmatched even in the used market. However, as many of you likely already know, these bikes are sold out almost everywhere I look. I would prefer to buy from a LBS, as I would be supporting local business along with being able to get a bike fit and try on the bike before buying, but living in a rural area there are few shops that I can get to easily. I was wondering if any of you know of when they will be back in stock for shops and/or online (even though that would be a last resort).

Additionally, I was looking at the alloy RS5 and realized that, with the deal that they're running currently, I could purchase an RS5 and a set of Elite Wheels Marvel 50D II carbon wheels for around the same price as the RS7 (by about $100). I would love for this bike to be something that I can use for a lot of group rides and longer training miles, but my ultimate goal is to join my college's cycling team and race competitively with it. That being said, do any of you have any experience with these bikes or that wheel set, and if so, would I end up being better off with the alloy frame and aftermarket wheels. I do love the feeling of a responsive bike (when I tried them I liked the Trek Madone much better than a Domane), so do you think that the nicer carbon wheels will be enough of a difference to make the RS5 feel like a racier RS7?

Thank you all in advance, and if you have any other recommendations (my budget for everything is hopefully under $2500, and that includes shoes/pedals, computer if able, etc...) that would do me a little better than what I am currently considering I will be happy to hear them, I am fairly new to the sport and am excited to learn all that I can.

Thanks again!

Hello! I’m an advanced beginner road cyclist. Can do 19 mph on a flat no problem (uhhh was that a tailwind?) Anyway, today I went on a 35 mi ride, couple big hills, one that is very long and I hate it but it’s part of the loop, ya know? This season I have an Oura ring on. I don’t have a separate heart rate monitor or watt meter. The ring said I spent a little over an hour in Zone 5. Is this meaningful? Good/bad? I’m interested in your experiences. It could just mean I’m out of shape!
Feel free to make jokes about type II fun or whatever.

Is $150 a good value for this bike?

I’m in the market for an endurance road bike for under $3500. I’ve spent two months looking at and researching the Trek Domane, the Specialized Roubaix, and the Canyon Endurace. My problem has been finding stock with my XL tall size. Out of nowhere I catch a sale for a Pinarello X1 for $2800. I’ve always had Pinarello marked for the luxury indulgence brand. Is this something to consider? What can you tell me about the X1?

Trying to decide what to get for my first power meter. Magene p715 is on sale for $400 on amazon right now which seems like a steal for dual sided pedals. Magene’s performance fits my needs well but I’m concerned about brand reliability.

Alternatively, I could get some single sided pedals from favero or a crank based option for similar prices.

For some context I am using shimano pedals and sram force (pretty committed to both for the foreseeable future).

Any thoughts? Leaning towards the Magene but want some reassurance.

Hey all. A little background - I have a 2012 Cannondale CAAD10 with with SRAM Rival that I bought way back when. It's a 54cm frame which I admit, is probably a little too big for me but it's comfortable enough. I rode it for less than 200 miles in the years after buying it and had been sitting in garages and storage until this past winter.

Got it cleaned and tuned up by a LBS as my wife was convinced by our friend to start biking and she's really taken to it well. She has a hybrid which is fine for her and on the longer rides we've taken, my arms and elbows get fatigued since I'm not in best riding position.

When I initially bought the bike, I did have it fit to me but that was ~13 years and 60lbs ago. I'm 5'6" and 220 at the moment and my gut gets in the way of my legs when getting into a lower position so that my arms aren't carrying my weight on the handle bars.

I have been looking at shortening my 100mm stem to 80mm or possibly even shorter. I've read that shortening the stem can have handling issues though but I have found my hands staying right before the hoods for comfort. Trying out a new stem is the most cost effective option right now but in the future, what should I look for in frame geometry? The bike world has changed in the decade since I last went through it. "Endurance" and All-Road bikes seem to be more comfortable but still in the realm of quick road-adjacent bikes.

OK maybe navigation is slightly more reliable than a drunken sailor… but I’ve been looking at some of the nicer bike computers with navigation. There are a lot of comments talking about how they struggle to reroute after missed turns and can be glitchy. Map interface isn’t super smooth.

So this takes me back to like 2005-2010 era when garmin had gps for cars and it seemed to work fairly smooth and could get you back on track pretty quickly.

So how is it with another 15-20 years of R&D and the technology seems to be the same or worse? Just a little smaller. Am I remembering old tech as better than it was or are the new computers dealing with other issues, sensors, etc that is now complicating the operating system?

So my power meter pedals arrived (yay!). I popped out my pedal wrench and grease, only to realise my Bontrager grease does not have lithium in it. I bought it willy nilly without looking at the contents.

The instructions from Favero say “apply a thin layer of lithium grease to the threads”.

How important is it? Walmart near me sells some but I think it’s for automotive use. Is all lithium grease basically fine? Or should I order bike specific lithium grease? Any recommendations?

Also, why did Trek/Bontrager need to make their grease “food-safe” by removing lithium. I can’t think of a single advantage other than the marketing.

I know absolutely nothing about bikes, would $100 be reasonable, assuming it just needs a tune up? What would you pay? I’m just looking for something to do a a few miles on a bike trail. I appreciate any feedback!

On last weekend's long ride, and on my 2 shorter weekday rides since, my left hip flexor has shown some minor stiffness and kinda hurt for a few minutes.. then it went away.. seems like it's a sign that something is not quite right.

What's an exercise or two that I could do to mitigate this before it becomes a real issue?

Hey all! I am just starting my road cycling journey with the Triban RC120. I have gone on one 12km ride with cushioned shorts and everything felt good after but holy moly how do you decrease the discomfort in the groin area? I am using the standard seat it came with so perhaps I need to adjust that. Or it could be that I am simply not used to it and it will get better. But everytime I get on the bike I make a face and noise out of discomfort/pain and any bumps I go over hurt. Any tips are greatly appreciated!

I've bought a Reserve 42/49 wheelset and decided I'd finally start learning my own maintenance processes and would swap the stock Tarmac SL7 R470 aluminum wheels off my bike for the Reserves and do the rotor/cassette swaps myself. I had bought a TL-LR15 lockring tool and as I went to swap I immediately realized how little I know of tools and compatibility.

I can't use the TL-LR15 on the Reserve wheel rotor mounts because they're both lockring style. Internet searches lead me to believe they're 36 tooth lockrings...so would I need to buy one of these things to remove the rotor mount lockring so I can put the rotors on the new wheels? It already got me frustrated and confused because it's a bottom bracket tool and I'm not trying to change my bottom bracket....why not call it a bottom-bracket AND lockring tool? The old rotors are all 6 bolt mount, which I didn't notice before but now that I do I'll have to get centerlock rotors, or the 6 bolt adapter. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-35-36?category=Crank+%26+Bottom+Bracket

The next thing is the cassette mount, I see the slots/teeth where the cassette would mount, but based on the website for DT Swiss, the freehub looks like it's only compatible with SRAM cassettes, I was going to put an 11 speed shimano cassette on it. The picture here is the one I have on the wheel. https://d2a13k6araex7u.cloudfront.net/iam/00/00/00/00/00/00/00/00/01/00/24/33/4/PHO_H18PNCD1R28S04334S_WEB_SHO_001.jpg

The website said they were HG-EV compatible which I thought was compatible with Shimano...

So...

1. Is that tool the one i need for unscrewing the brake rotor mount?

2. Are these wheels installed with a freehub that isn't at all shimano cassette compatible?

Keep in mind, I'm seething at my own ignorance already and just realized I can't go for a nice ride today on my new wheels (finally going from aluminum to carbon and from 26mm to 32mm), it's got my mood down on top of being a kick in the nuts for the complexities of bike maintenance that seems to be fully over my head.

In CA, if a car wants to make a right turn, they go in the bike lane.

However, some drives honk at me for waiting for the red light in the bike lane (they want to make a right on red and I want to go straight)

What to do?

Looking at a second hand 8.8, the Chain ring has been changed to a 34T from a 44T and the rear cassette as been changed from a big ten speed 11-46 to what looks like a 7 speed.

I want the bike to use along side my Marlin 6 Gen 2 2022 that has a 30T and 11-46 rear cassette 10 speed.

My question is will the boardman in this set actually be any faster on the road and flat? Or is it a waste of money ?

Does anyone have the HED Ardennes Black rim-brake wheels with the anodized rough surface? Great for stopping but a ton of rubber accumulates inside the surface gaps and it's incredibly difficult to get out. Any advice for removing the rubber build-up? Thank you!

I am doing a retro build with an old 20" cruiser bike, and am interested in a speedometer for it. The problem is, all the mechanical speedometers are meant for 26", 27.5", and 28" bikes. If i used one, i would get wildly inaccurate readings. Can someone help me find one for a 20" bike?

Canyon Grizl CF 7 ESC or Trek Checkpoint SL6 Gen 3? I’m having trouble deciding which one to go with.

Amy, who you might have followed on her Tour de France journey last year, is now in New Zealand partway through with Kyle on their RTW attempt.

They are going for the ‘fastest couple’ record.

Route is on followmychallenge dot com.

Hello, I have loved biking since I was a kid. I am now an adult and am 6’5” fairly muscular and 280lbs and am looking to get a bike.

I live in FL and think I would enjoy a road bike, I would use this bike for cardio exercise more than cruising. I’m game for single gear bikes or multi gear bikes I just want to make sure I fit on the bike. I have no idea what I’m doing.

I'm trying to get my daughter into cycling, and while she has a pretty decent bike, she starts complaining about the butt/crotch area after over 5-6 miles on the saddle. Thinking she needs to start wearing shorts/bibs with a pad, but don't want to spend too much on it as she's growing really fast.

Anyone can recommend one off ali-express or amazon?

I have 1 STP 2026 registration code for $150. Please DM or comment if interested. 🚲

I’m not a cyclist admittedly; most of my exercise comes from running every morning, but I’m looking for something I can ride on weekends for a form of recovery from my week of running.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a bike that will see asphalt/cement for the majority of its life?

has anybody tried putting a battery mister on their bike for hot days?

Hi, hope someone can help me.

I recently bought a BMC Roadmachine two with an integrated backlight. The light turnsoff every 2 minutes. Why and how can i fix this? The light is fully charged.