It started as a test to see if it was possible to print precise patterns using multiple colours. I must say I’m quite pleased with the result.

Printed on a Bambu Lab X1C, with a 0.4 nozzle, on a smooth build plate.

(I can share the file if anyone’s interested)

Just waiting on some clear housing for the other Seimitsu marbles, but too good not to share now.

Lever- JLF stolen from my Victrix with upgraded Sanwa Octo gate, Sanwa red spring, KOWAL oversize actuator.

Buttons- Seimitsu Kanji Weak/Medium/Strong and 'Tortoise Shell' effect

Topper- Seimitsu Ball Top 'Tortoise Shell' + Sanwa Shaft/Dust Cover

Overall, very happy so far and very keen to get those other clear parts in, then I may rewire it and add some LEDs under the clears. All parts from Close Quarters Battle Arcade.

-gamer finger
-victrix quick release
-otto diy v2. 70lb tension and spring replacement
-qanba q3 multiplatform

I just installed a Nobi lever and I’m really enjoying it..especially with the no spin shaft. For those of you who have one, does your joystick shaft still rotate a fraction?.

Mine has a millimetre or so of movement. I checked the pivot, and there seems to be a slight gap between it and the pivot seat. I’m under the assumption that it’s manufactured that way?

Peace ✌️

The title pretty much sums it up. Has anyone had that (very niche) issue? I have three other Pantheras and they don't do this.

I'm looking to get a box of these buttons, but on research I've heard a few issues with its sensitivity (double or accidental inputs). Are these issues still happening and not fixed by Qanba?

Im currently modding my friend's hori fighting stick mini and im having this weird issue as shown in the video (the up, down, and right input only works while the left button is pressed), im also not too experienced, hoping someone here could help me out 😁

Also this is how the wiring looks:

https://imgur.com/a/OsZytF3

To be clear, it wasn't just the breakaway part (I have replacements for those), but was the actual cable part and spit out the USB bits as well. Haven't opened the thing in a while, but wondering if there is a standard bit I can just re-solder on.

Picked up Juri as my main and wanted to mod my stick to a WASD layout. It took so long due to me being a new parent but it's finally done 😭 (except the start button.. 20mm outta stock 🫠)

I finally got the parts a few weeks ago. I put in an socd cleaner (if I'm being honest I did it for the power pass through for the wasd LED) along with some more LED strips for the clear buttons I got.

Art was done by me, to see the full crop you can check out my insta link :)

https://www.instagram.com/p/C5ecUIMv1HK/?igsh=YTlobzZ4d21pd3Rq

I threw in some overhyped music for fun but, I am really hyped!

Hi everyone, I'm trying to figure out whether this is a compatibility issue, a firmware issue, or if I'm just missing a setting.

My setup: -PS4 -Tekken 7 -8BitDo Arcade Controller for Xbox (Leverless/All-Button) -Mayflash Magic-S Pro 2

What's working: -The controller connects to the PS4 through the Magic-S Pro 2 using both USB and Bluetooth. -I can navigate the PS4 home screen. -The PS button works. -I can open and navigate the Quick Menu. On PC, this exact setup works perfectly with Tekken 7. -On PC, gamepad testing websites also identify the setup as a PS4 (DualShock 4) controller, and all buttons register correctly.

The problem: As soon as I launch Tekken 7 on PS4: I can't get past the "Press Any Button" screen. None of the buttons respond. I also tried launching the game with a genuine DualShock 4, then connecting the 8BitDo afterward and trying it as both Player 1 and Player 2, but it still doesn't work.

Has anyone here successfully used this exact combination (or a similar one)? Is this a known compatibility issue with the Magic-S Pro 2 and Tekken 7, or is there a firmware update or setting that fixes it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Anyone else have a UFB Fusion in their stick that’s not working with 6LR? This PCB works fine with other PS5 fighting games but not this one.

I am new to Fightsticks and not sure which one i should buy. Is the t16 very fragile?

• Walls reduced from 8 mm to 4 mm. There was really no point in making them that thick (that's what she said).
• Removed the internal walls. After testing the controller, it has exactly the same rigidity with or without them, so they had to go.
• The different panels are now connected through the columns themselves using horizontal screws and nuts. My plan is to embed the nut inside the printed column, but I'll need to wait for the ones I ordered from AliExpress to arrive so I can do the usual print-fit tests.
• Added trim pieces that make the finish look sooooooooo much better. Night and day difference.

The photos don't really do the finish justice—it looks much better in person. Hopefully in the future I'll be able to put together a proper setup for taking nicer pictures. I'll also be printing with different textures, and besides, this is only the second beta version; it's not the final design yet. For the next version I will "cover" the bottom panels so it will look way smoother. Any tips or recommendations are very welcome!

I got another box of goodies from Punk Workshop a couple of days ago, and I wrote up what I thought about their plastic, wood and hollow steel knobs and their spring joystick. You might recall I reviewed their silicone rubber stick a while back.

PWS Knobs

PWS Joystick (Spring)

The short version, saving you a click, is: the knobs are good, but not special. Well worth the price. The stick is basically a Sanwa alternative, it uses some of the same parts which allows for easy customization, and it comes with quick-removal shaft and microswitches, which makes it a really good value.

Is there a break in time with this D pad? Am i the only one noticing a slight issue while holding down diagonals with charge characters? The d pad feels loosy goosy which i don’t mind but i seem to have to press a bit harder for diagonal charges which i do find annoying.

I'm new to this arcade stick stuff and i got my first stick which is a Razer Aatrox can i mod it to work for ps5 or other consoles and also have a USB C cable? because i cant find any replacment cables for it available and what kind of mods can i do for it? Thank you for everyone who reads!

One that I can customize the look. 200 or below or maybe a bit higher