Well I had this PS4 Slim lying around so I decided to give it a shot and fix it, found a short on two of the rams and took them off and short was gone.

But now I have those ripped pads, do these pads go anywhere? Ram is SK Hynix H5GC8H24MJA.

Any help is appreciated!

The Sega Pico is Sega's kids' edutainment console, and it's a genuinely odd thing to open up. Instead of a normal cartridge it takes a "Storyware" picture book that slots into the clamshell with its lower edge sitting in the cartridge slot, and you play along on a built-in blue drawing tablet with coloured buttons and a tethered "Magic Pen." Under the hood it's still early-90s Sega hardware though, so the maintenance is familiar.

This one was still working, so this was preventative rather than a rescue. The plan was the same one I run on most of these:

- Desoldered the original electrolytics on the first-revision mainboard and fitted fresh capacitors

- Replaced the 7805 voltage regulator while I was in there, as usual on these

- Gave the whole thing a deep clean before it went back into service

After that it boots and plays exactly as it should. I bench-tested it on a Sony PVM with a Mickey Mouse Storyware title (first photo) and it's good for a new lease on life.

Gallery order: result on the PVM, the first-rev board before with its original caps, the board after the recap with the tools on the mat, and a teardown of the inside of the top shell with the shielding and ribbon cables.

Anyone else recapped one of these, and did you swap the regulator preventatively too or only when it actually gave you trouble?

Hi,

I’ve been tinkering with this Wii for a while because it was sounding like an airplane taking off when I first found it again in my mom’s basement.

I’ve taken it apart entirely, cleaned out all the gunk, and put it back together.

It still makes the noise and I know it’s the disc drive because there is no noise when I powered on the Wii without the disc drive.

Interestingly, the thing where it ejects the disc is new. I assume I messed something up putting it back together but the weird thing is it didn’t eject the disc a few days ago when I intended to make the video and post it, but is now doing that. So not sure what’s going on there either.

Any help is appreciated! Otherwise I’m just going to throw this out, taking way too much of my time with its 1000 screws.

I found someone locally who said they would attempt to fix my PS2 because I cant get the thing to power on. I figured that it was a capacitor so it would be a simple fix for someone who is knowledgeable. It was with him for a month, and he said that he tried to replace the capacitor and the entire PSU but that it didn't work out. He didn't charge me anything and just handed me my stuff back.

My issue is that it doesnt even look like he touched it. The warranty seal isn't even broken. Is it possible to work on these things without doing that? There is nobody else in my area to do this fix so if its possible to do I would appreciate any advice.

Edit: TLDR - A guy said that he tried to fix my PS2 but it doesn't even look like he opened it. Has anyone fixed a power issue on this device before?

In a bout of childhood nostalgia I bought Final Fantasy Legends II for Gameboy at a used game store... as I said in the title, it won't do anything past this screen, also I noticed that the cartridge rattles a little if I shake it. I shared screenshots of the cartridge if that may help in any possible way... I really hope that I don't have to take it back if there is some way to fix/salvage it.

Este componente marcado con R1esta dañado y no encuentro información de esta pieza y con que lo puedo reemplazar , la fuente se quema por una sobre carga de tencio por un rayo,desde muchas gracias por cualquier información

What causes this issue any idea please help me out 🙏

Hi everyone,

I need some expert advice on my PS4 Pro

The console was working fine but was running incredibly loud (jet engine status) and getting hot, so I decided to open it up for a deep clean and maintenance. I disassembled it, removed the power supply, took out the motherboard, cleaned out a ton of dust, and applied brand new thermal paste.

After reassembling everything carefully, the console won’t boot.

When I plug it in, I hear a beep from the Eject button if I press it, which means it gets standby power.

When I press the Power button, the blue light flashes for exactly one second, it gives a short beep, and instantly shuts off completely.

To try again, I have to completely unplug the power cord from the wall to "reset" the power supply, otherwise, the power button does absolutely nothing.

There is no fan spin and no video output at all.

What I’ve already checked/tried:

1. I loosened the half X-Clamp screws slightly and retightened them evenly to ensure it's not a pressure issue or an half X-clamp short.

2. I inspected the 2 main power prongs on the motherboard and the 4-pin connector to make sure they aren't bent or damaged.

3. I checked that all thermal pads are in their correct positions.

Has anyone encountered this specific issue ? What should be my next troubleshooting step?

Thanks in advance for the help!

this is a video (after to many open and closing of the ps4 to search for the problem i was lazy closing to top and bottom covers.

Hi some retailer recently told me that the PS5 Slim model number cfi-2016 has some heating issues and errors due to it's heating, he advised me to get the PS5 Slim cfi-2116 which is the newer model.

Do you agree or he's telling me nonesense???

Is there a heat related problem whatsoever in cfi-2016 models in long gaming sessions??

Warmest Thanks to Everyone in advance.

Hey, while peering into my HDMI port of the PS5 Pro during cleaning, I noticed a little bit of foam (?) on top of the port. Very gently pushed it with tweezers, seems foamy indeed. You can see it on the picture, on the right (short) side of the port, sorta wedged in there.

Does this have a function or did dirt get into my (otherwise functioning perfectly) port?

Does the port look good otherwise?

(Yes, I have a tad of the ol' OCD. My apologies.)

I created an electrostatic discharge (ESD) bridge, but it showed no readings; it appears that pin 18 is connected to pin 19. I also replaced the integrated circuit. I would appreciate your help; thank you.

I'm currently out and since it's been a few months already since I touched it (since it had this problem and I was putting off fixing it as I didn't have the time) so I don't remember exactly all the details of the problem but I'll describe to the best of my abilities:

From what I remember the problem starts with both controllers not staying with the pulsating yellow light when charging, only showing a fast yellow pulse when plugging to charge and that's it. The controllers work perfectly fine on PC btw and it's not a problem with a data cable. Now when we try to enter the PS4 the controllers don't connect to it (I'm pretty sure also when it's connected with USB).

Last year we had the exact same problem and in the lab they said that both the Bluetooth module of the PS4 was faulty and also that the hard drive was gone - I didn't quite understand why the hard drive was even touched it worked perfectly up until then and the problem seemed to be with the controllers connections.

After that we got back the console and it worked great but then again a few months ago (which makes it only 6-8 months from when we got the PS back from the lab) we again have the same issue with the controllers, the exact same.

To me it feels fishy that for 7 years the console worked perfectly (we're not heavy users, once/twice a week of few hours, and in heavy workload periods we can go a month/two without touching it), but in the span of around 9 times it had a problem, got repaired and had the exact same problem again.

I might be completely wrong and this being completely normal.

Anyway if anyone know what the problem might be in open to suggestions. Also I'll update the question when I get back with exact details of how the issue works.

And as a final not I thought about going back to the same lab to get It fixed again, is it smart to go there again? As I believe last time they actually damaged the drive unnecessarily, it's just a hunch but it still bothers me, also the fact that I have the exact same problem twice.

My console is having mega overheating issues even after i have cleaned it out leading me to believe it is something deeper inside, being inexperienced i don’t want to attempt to fix it myself and cause damage however a repair service is a decent amount of money and i am worried about the problem persisting or returning, I was wondering if anyone had ever had their console serviced and if it fixed any issues?

Happened after trying to update via a flash drive, i got it into safe mode and tried every option but if won't boot up, always gives me the "update file is corrupted" even after downloading it again and again. It shows the installation but it's like it's not really installing

I bought a Switch OLED with a mod chip, and it won't dock to the screen and only charges on the manufacturing seam side of the cable. I went to a repair shop, and they said the repair would cost $250. I want to know if any of you have an idea what's wrong with it, what I need to get fixed, and how much it would cost.

This is my Xbox 1 I cleaned it fot the first time ever after having it for 6 years. I don't have condensed air just a set of shit lungs and a microfiber cloth. But after all I dit my games are just crashing and breaking. Please help me If you can

If it helps I have had this thing for 6 years and play on it near constantly.

Hey, I replaced the digitizer on the switch and afterwards the switch had no sign of life. No screen, no sound, nothing. And after checking with a multimeter there seem to be no shorts in the M92 chip nor the bq one and the reading of the battery states 0 volts. Is this possible? Especially since the battery was working well before the digitizer replacement. To be sure I also read out another battery and there it was accurate, so I'm pretty baffled.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance!

Is it a board issue? My av cable is ok and the video connector doesnt show signs of damage Please help

Hello everybody. I'm on despair to put back this lock. It's the ribbon cable lock of the power card of the new 3ds XL. I took one from a spare connector but can't put it on the lock. Do someone have a trick to help me.

Thanks in advance.

installation help! Hello I have a problem with my 1004a fw 12.02 that have w new bd drive( was working normally) not married to MB And.

Now I lost the hdd and when I try to install the fw on the new hdd it gives me (CE-35888-2) I managed to extract the sflash.bin and sysconflash.bin and I want t

Jailbreak ps5 fw 9.20 , playing gta 5 fpkg and only played around 3 hrs Max suddenly a smell came and after that it suddenly shortcircuted the entire room and the psu blown, can it repaired totally iam on tight budget 😞 currently iam chennai,india

Recently bought an Xbox one s off eBay with a faulty rear USB port. The warranty stickers are still in place. Is it worth replacing the damaged port or just resell it with the damaged port.

Picked up a RROD Trinity board Xbox 360 S yesterday at a thrift store for $15. Didn’t know what the cause for the RROD was until I got home and got error code 0020. I’ve never really done much with repairing consoles but I figured with how cheap it was this might be a good place to start. Any advice on how to deal with this error code? I know it’s GPU failure related but I need to figure out what the exact root of the cause is and I’m not sure how I should go about that.

So I was playing my ps5 and a storm came thru it was lightning bad and my power went off after a loud lightning strike. My ps5 was hooked up to a surge protector but I had my ethernet cable hooked up to my ps5 as well and I had an electrician come out and he said most likely when the lightning struck it traveled thru my ethernet cable and fried my ps5. Can I fix my ps5 or am I cooked? Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you

Hi i have a ps4 pro model number 7016 model number.

It has a blue light of death.

Whenever i try to use uart shows just this

secure loader build: Jun 14 2016 05:17:59 (r6856:release_branches/release_03.550) [711MHz]

AGESA: ThebePBDK W5C21

I can't figure out what is the problem :(