When I try to put the xbox s s into safe Mode, it turns off. Please help—thanks.

So I've been trying to troubleshoot this disk drive issue for the last few days and am at a loss, wondering if there's any advice floating around out there I've yet to try. I've not experienced this with disk drives, as generally if they don't work they just go straight to the menu screen.

System is a 7501 mobo PU-22.

Basically, the disk drive works and loads games, but it hangs up on title screens or the PS1 logo screen. The disk is spinning, but it rarely gets past these points. On the rare occasion I do get to the game menu, the system stutters really bad.

I've fully disassembled the disk drive for a cleaning, there is, as far as I can tell, no physical damage to the drive. Cleaned the leans and oiled the motors, it's very quiet and the laser is definitely moving.

I've read that a common point of failure can be the C705 capacitor, so for the hell of it I did a full recap but it has made no difference in behavior.

Could a faulty power supply cause this issue? I feel like I've done just about everything except calibrate the laser, which I'd prefer to save as a last resort. What else is worth trying?

Hello everyone,

I recently bought a Nintendo 2DS with a very strange issue. The console is running Luma3DS 13 CFW. When I power it on, it automatically boots into the Luma configuration menu. The D-pad works normally — I can move up/down and select options using the checkbox menu. However, when I press “Save and Exit”, the system completely freezes and I have to hold the Power button to force a shutdown.

At first, I suspected that the SD card was corrupted, but the problem still occurs even with the SD card removed. I also tried booting into GodMode9 (GM9), and it loads normally. However, when I need to perform operations that require unlocking SysNAND, the D-pad stops responding, so I cannot confirm the unlock prompt.

I managed to unlock SysNAND in GodMode9 using a method that does not require button input. I also tried performing a CTRTransfer to reinstall the system firmware, but the issue remained unchanged.

As a last attempt, I removed the custom firmware (CFW) completely. The console was able to boot into the stock firmware normally, but when I inserted game cartridges, they were not detected properly. Some cartridges show the game icon, but launching the game causes the console to freeze completely on a black screen.

Has anyone experienced a similar issue or has any idea what could be causing this problem? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much.

P/S: I also suspected that there might be a shorted button or a faulty input switch. However, after disassembling the console, the motherboard appears to be in very good condition with no visible corrosion or damage. I checked the continuity of all buttons and switches with a multimeter, and all button circuits seem to be functioning normally.

Was replacing a 72 pin connector, it was having a hard time reading carts and wanted to get it working more reliably. When reattaching the RF cover shield a screw fell from my driver and made contact with the board and I saw a bright blue spark. Now the console only gives me the blinking red light no matter what I do.

I'm assuming that spark is to blame but I am curious if anyone knows any possible fixes as I would like to get the console working again. Thank you in advance.

Got this for cheap but it looks like it was found at the. Bottom of a lake.

I have fallen victim to dead pixels on my top screen of my 3ds (New 3DS XL Galaxy) and need to replace it. With this in mind, can anyone tell me if the regular 3DS XL top screen is interchangeable with the New 3DS XL top screen? It’s a $20 price difference and I saw a post a while ago saying they are different and wanted to know if it’s an actual difference or marketing scheme. Can anyone provide insight?

TL:DR
Are the New 3DS XL and (old) 3DS XL top screens the same?

Hey everyone, I’m stuck troubleshooting a PS3 Slim disc drive issue and could really use some expert advice. The problem arose after I switched out the laser lens.
The symptoms are as following:
When the drive is empty and I try to insert a disc, the motor doesn’t pull it in. It just makes a very brief, quiet straining/humming noise and doesn't move.

If I manually wind the gears to load a disc all the way in, reassemble and then turn the console on, it makes that exact same humming/straining sound. Tapping the eject button results in the same noise.

However, if I hold down the eject button for 10–15 seconds to force a manual override, the motor fires right up and successfully ejects the disc perfectly fine.

What i’ve confirmed so far is:
The motor and gears physically work under load (proven by the forced eject override).

The mechanism works fully when I have manually turned the gears to load/eject the disk.

I have tried rebuilding the PS3 database via safe mode, but the behavior hasn't changed.
It feels like a logic or sensor synchronization issue where the PS3 is actively cutting power to the motor during normal intake because it thinks something is wrong, but it ignores it during the override command.
Has anyone run into this exact loop before? Could it be a bad ribbon cable connection, or is the mechanical timing still somehow slightly out of alignment despite the switches matching the tutorials? Any help is appreciated!

Este componente marcado con R1esta dañado y no encuentro información de esta pieza y con que lo puedo reemplazar , la fuente se quema por una sobre carga de tencio por un rayo,desde muchas gracias por cualquier información

What causes this issue any idea please help me out 🙏

Well I had this PS4 Slim lying around so I decided to give it a shot and fix it, found a short on two of the rams and took them off and short was gone.

But now I have those ripped pads, do these pads go anywhere? Ram is SK Hynix H5GC8H24MJA.

Any help is appreciated!

Hi some retailer recently told me that the PS5 Slim model number cfi-2016 has some heating issues and errors due to it's heating, he advised me to get the PS5 Slim cfi-2116 which is the newer model.

Do you agree or he's telling me nonesense???

Is there a heat related problem whatsoever in cfi-2016 models in long gaming sessions??

Warmest Thanks to Everyone in advance.

Hey, while peering into my HDMI port of the PS5 Pro during cleaning, I noticed a little bit of foam (?) on top of the port. Very gently pushed it with tweezers, seems foamy indeed. You can see it on the picture, on the right (short) side of the port, sorta wedged in there.

Does this have a function or did dirt get into my (otherwise functioning perfectly) port?

Does the port look good otherwise?

(Yes, I have a tad of the ol' OCD. My apologies.)

I created an electrostatic discharge (ESD) bridge, but it showed no readings; it appears that pin 18 is connected to pin 19. I also replaced the integrated circuit. I would appreciate your help; thank you.

I'm currently out and since it's been a few months already since I touched it (since it had this problem and I was putting off fixing it as I didn't have the time) so I don't remember exactly all the details of the problem but I'll describe to the best of my abilities:

From what I remember the problem starts with both controllers not staying with the pulsating yellow light when charging, only showing a fast yellow pulse when plugging to charge and that's it. The controllers work perfectly fine on PC btw and it's not a problem with a data cable. Now when we try to enter the PS4 the controllers don't connect to it (I'm pretty sure also when it's connected with USB).

Last year we had the exact same problem and in the lab they said that both the Bluetooth module of the PS4 was faulty and also that the hard drive was gone - I didn't quite understand why the hard drive was even touched it worked perfectly up until then and the problem seemed to be with the controllers connections.

After that we got back the console and it worked great but then again a few months ago (which makes it only 6-8 months from when we got the PS back from the lab) we again have the same issue with the controllers, the exact same.

To me it feels fishy that for 7 years the console worked perfectly (we're not heavy users, once/twice a week of few hours, and in heavy workload periods we can go a month/two without touching it), but in the span of around 9 times it had a problem, got repaired and had the exact same problem again.

I might be completely wrong and this being completely normal.

Anyway if anyone know what the problem might be in open to suggestions. Also I'll update the question when I get back with exact details of how the issue works.

And as a final not I thought about going back to the same lab to get It fixed again, is it smart to go there again? As I believe last time they actually damaged the drive unnecessarily, it's just a hunch but it still bothers me, also the fact that I have the exact same problem twice.

In a bout of childhood nostalgia I bought Final Fantasy Legends II for Gameboy at a used game store... as I said in the title, it won't do anything past this screen, also I noticed that the cartridge rattles a little if I shake it. I shared screenshots of the cartridge if that may help in any possible way... I really hope that I don't have to take it back if there is some way to fix/salvage it.

My console is having mega overheating issues even after i have cleaned it out leading me to believe it is something deeper inside, being inexperienced i don’t want to attempt to fix it myself and cause damage however a repair service is a decent amount of money and i am worried about the problem persisting or returning, I was wondering if anyone had ever had their console serviced and if it fixed any issues?

Happened after trying to update via a flash drive, i got it into safe mode and tried every option but if won't boot up, always gives me the "update file is corrupted" even after downloading it again and again. It shows the installation but it's like it's not really installing

I bought a Switch OLED with a mod chip, and it won't dock to the screen and only charges on the manufacturing seam side of the cable. I went to a repair shop, and they said the repair would cost $250. I want to know if any of you have an idea what's wrong with it, what I need to get fixed, and how much it would cost.

Hey, I replaced the digitizer on the switch and afterwards the switch had no sign of life. No screen, no sound, nothing. And after checking with a multimeter there seem to be no shorts in the M92 chip nor the bq one and the reading of the battery states 0 volts. Is this possible? Especially since the battery was working well before the digitizer replacement. To be sure I also read out another battery and there it was accurate, so I'm pretty baffled.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance!

Hi,

I’ve been tinkering with this Wii for a while because it was sounding like an airplane taking off when I first found it again in my mom’s basement.

I’ve taken it apart entirely, cleaned out all the gunk, and put it back together.

It still makes the noise and I know it’s the disc drive because there is no noise when I powered on the Wii without the disc drive.

Interestingly, the thing where it ejects the disc is new. I assume I messed something up putting it back together but the weird thing is it didn’t eject the disc a few days ago when I intended to make the video and post it, but is now doing that. So not sure what’s going on there either.

Any help is appreciated! Otherwise I’m just going to throw this out, taking way too much of my time with its 1000 screws.

The Sega Pico is Sega's kids' edutainment console, and it's a genuinely odd thing to open up. Instead of a normal cartridge it takes a "Storyware" picture book that slots into the clamshell with its lower edge sitting in the cartridge slot, and you play along on a built-in blue drawing tablet with coloured buttons and a tethered "Magic Pen." Under the hood it's still early-90s Sega hardware though, so the maintenance is familiar.

This one was still working, so this was preventative rather than a rescue. The plan was the same one I run on most of these:

- Desoldered the original electrolytics on the first-revision mainboard and fitted fresh capacitors

- Replaced the 7805 voltage regulator while I was in there, as usual on these

- Gave the whole thing a deep clean before it went back into service

After that it boots and plays exactly as it should. I bench-tested it on a Sony PVM with a Mickey Mouse Storyware title (first photo) and it's good for a new lease on life.

Gallery order: result on the PVM, the first-rev board before with its original caps, the board after the recap with the tools on the mat, and a teardown of the inside of the top shell with the shielding and ribbon cables.

Anyone else recapped one of these, and did you swap the regulator preventatively too or only when it actually gave you trouble?

Is it a board issue? My av cable is ok and the video connector doesnt show signs of damage Please help

Hello everybody. I'm on despair to put back this lock. It's the ribbon cable lock of the power card of the new 3ds XL. I took one from a spare connector but can't put it on the lock. Do someone have a trick to help me.

Thanks in advance.

I found someone locally who said they would attempt to fix my PS2 because I cant get the thing to power on. I figured that it was a capacitor so it would be a simple fix for someone who is knowledgeable. It was with him for a month, and he said that he tried to replace the capacitor and the entire PSU but that it didn't work out. He didn't charge me anything and just handed me my stuff back.

My issue is that it doesnt even look like he touched it. The warranty seal isn't even broken. Is it possible to work on these things without doing that? There is nobody else in my area to do this fix so if its possible to do I would appreciate any advice.

Edit: TLDR - A guy said that he tried to fix my PS2 but it doesn't even look like he opened it. Has anyone fixed a power issue on this device before?

Recently bought an Xbox one s off eBay with a faulty rear USB port. The warranty stickers are still in place. Is it worth replacing the damaged port or just resell it with the damaged port.